咖啡廳與健身日常

48 Hours In Taipei: A Culinary Guide To The Taiwanese Capital

台北兩天一夜美食之旅：48小時首都美食記

For anyone who has visited Taipei, food is at the center of all things. It is a city that never sleeps. Whether it’s 3pm or 3am, you can be sure to find something delicious to snack on.

對於許多來台北觀光的遊客來說，台北匯集了各式各樣的美食，幾乎可說是美食之都。這個城市無論在什麼時間都充滿著生機。不管是在下午三點還是零晨三點，只要在台北市區一定都能找到東西吃。

Day 1: Chinese Breakfast at Yong He Dou Jiang

第一天早餐：永和豆漿的中式早餐

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Chinese breakfast is a favorite in Taiwan. The Chinese equivalent to French toast, buttermilk pancakes and the full English, is fried crullers dipped in frothy hot soya milk, steamed pork dumplings, sticky filled rice wraps and fried cruller and egg wraps. Yong He Dou Jiang is one of the most famous breakfast brands in Taiwan with numerous shops across Taipei and abroad. Whilst you can go on the lighter side for breakfast with soya milk and fried cruller, it’s hard to say no to starting the day with a steamer full of steamed pork dumplings filled with soupy goodness.

在台北能看到的早餐類型相當地多元，無論是傳統的饅頭包子、各種口味的法式吐司、美式鬆餅還是傳統的英式早餐，在台北您都能看得到。

提到台北最經典的早餐店，我就不得不提永和豆漿了，它是台灣相當有名的早餐店，您想得到任何跟傳統中式早餐有關的食物在這裡都能找得到，像是鹹豆漿、豬肉蒸餃、飯糰、油條或是蛋餅在這裡都能吃得到。當您今天想吃少一點，那麼油條配豆漿就是不錯的選擇。但對我來說，來到永和豆漿，不點滿滿一籠的有飽滿肉汁的豬肉蒸餃是不行的。

Day 1: Lunch at Ben Shabu Shabu

第一天午餐：犇極鍋物

Hotpot is a standard communal dish across East Asia, with a tremendous range of soup bases and styles. Taipei is a prime place for hot pot, whether of the Sichuanese split-pot variety, known as ‘mala hot pot’, Japanese style shabu shabu and sukiyaki, or Taiwanese hot pot with shacha sauce and raw egg yolk. Whilst traditionally communal, individual hotpot has become popular in Taipei and can be found in shopping centers throughout the city. Ben Shabu Shabu is a high-end hotpot restaurant that is amongst the most popular in the city.

火鍋是東亞社會常見的一種聚餐方式，它有著各式各樣的湯底和風味。台北正好是火鍋店的一級戰區，無論是以麻辣聞名的四川火鍋、或是比前者清淡且具日式風格的涮涮鍋或是帶甜味的壽喜燒，又或者是搭配沙茶醬和生蛋黃的台式傳統火鍋，您在台北都能看得到。

除了上面所提的常見店家外，個人鍋物在台北也相當受歡迎，這類型的店家經常出現在百貨公司裡。而其中，我最推薦的是位於安和路上的犇極鍋物，這間店是台北最有名且最精緻的個人火鍋店。

Day 1: Afternoon Snack at Ice Monster

第一天下午茶：Ice Monster

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Taipei has perfected the art of chilled out food for a hot summer day. Hot and humid in the summer, Taipei residents find creative and tasty ways to stay cool. Having invented and popularized bubble tea and shaved ice desserts on a global scale, Taiwan’s icy desserts just keep getting better. Capitalizing on two of Taiwan’s best products: fruit and icy summer desserts, Ice Monster offers a tantalizing combination of shaved ice topped with fruit slices and ice cream, drizzled over with syrup. Ice Monster’s mango shaved ice comes as a small mountain of shaved ice covered in fresh mango with a dollop of mango ice cream. Perfect to stave off the sweltering Taiwanese summer.

除了正餐外，台北這座城市也匯集了相當多有供應消暑食物的店家。因為台北地形的關係，每逢夏日，總是又濕又熱，當地人因此發掘各種創意的方式來消暑。像是喝珍珠奶茶、吃冰等等。

講到吃冰，在台北最常見的，就是水果搭配甜甜的冰品。在那麼多的冰店中，我最推薦的是Ice Monster，它提供了各式各樣相當吸引人的產品，各種結合了刨冰、香甜的水果及冰淇淋的冰品，然後上面再搭配濃濃的糖漿。其中我最喜歡的是他們家的芒果冰，上面除了有像小山丘的刨冰外，店家另外還加上新鮮芒果以及芒果冰淇淋，阿，想到這，我忍不住又想要吃了。

Day 1: Dinner at Din Tai Fung

第一天晚餐：鼎泰豐

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Din Tai Fung specializes in steamed soup dumplings, or xiao long bao. As with the founders of Taipei’s beef noodle soup shops, Din Tai Fung’s founder immigrated to Taiwan in 1948 as the Nationalist government withdrew from mainland China. Originally a cooking oil retailer, Din Tai Fung’s owners served steamed soup dumplings on the side from their Xinyi Road location. Now, Din Tai Fung has become the go-to for dim sum. If you fancy some vegetables, pea shoots, Taiwanese lettuce and water spinach are all excellent accompaniments. At the Taipei 101 location, you can watch the chefs masterfully making the xiao long bao behind a glass divider. Chinese desserts are often an acquired taste, but are well worth a try at Din Tai Fung. Its superb dessert options include steamed red bean dumplings, eight flavored sticky rice and steamed red bean rice cake.

鼎泰豐最有名的當屬它的小籠包，跟台北許多的牛肉麵老店一樣，都是在1948年國共內戰末期，舉家從大陸遷到台灣的。起初，鼎泰豐只是一間食用油的經銷商，後來開始在信義路的總店原址供應湯包。過了60多年後，鼎泰豐現今搖身一變成為了小籠包的翹楚。除了小籠包外，如果您想要吃些蔬食，那麼我相當推薦這裡的四季豆、A菜和空心菜，如果您在飯後想吃些甜品，那麼也不能錯過這裡的豆沙包、八寶粥和紅豆蒸糕喔。最後，在鼎泰豐，您也可以透過開放式的櫥窗來看看這裡師傅的真功夫喔。

Day 1: Late Night at Tonghua Jie Night Market

第一天宵夜：通化街夜市

此為示意圖，非店家產品

At nine o’ clock, it is time to head out for shopping and the requisite evening of Taiwanese street snacks. Just a normal street in the daytime, at night, the area became a hub of activity as street hawkers set up shop. From cassette tapes to Doraemon alarm clocks, Tonghua Night Market had a bit of everything. In addition to the lights and noise, Tonghua Night Market is filled with the distinct smell of taipei. Come hungry and grab a seat at a teppanyaki stall or, better yet, follow your nose and the crowds to the stinky tofu stands. If you’re up for something sweeter and with less of a stench, pick up a crepe-like wrap with shaved peanut brittle, ice cream and garnished with coriander. It is a strange combination, but an unmissable one.

到了晚上九點，是時候從旅館走出來體驗一下台北的夜生活了，要知道在台北，光是一個普通的街道，無論是在白天還是晚上，都能看到有在經營的店家。

如果要選一個可以體驗台北夜生活最好的地方，那麼位在信義鬧區附近的通化夜市就是您最好的選擇了，在這裡，您也能看到各式各樣的商品，也有非常多的小吃攤。當您逛了街，開始感覺餓的時候，您可以去吃這裡的鐵板燒或是臭豆腐。另外，如果您想吃點甜然後不想讓衣服沾到任何像是臭豆腐的味道，那麼花生捲冰淇淋就很適合您，它是由花生糖磨成粉，再搭配傳統的台式冰淇淋，然後包在潤餅裡的一種甜食。雖然感覺上是一種詭異的組合，但是意外地好吃。

Day 2: Breakfast at Mister Donut

第二天早餐：Mister Donut

此為示意圖，非店家產品

A cheeky addition to the list, Mister Donut is actually a Japanese import, and one of the most popular. Cute to the core, Mister Donut has been immensely popular in Taipei. With its mascot Pon de Lion dancing around its store windows and shop signs, as well as bear doughnuts and pon de ring doughnuts. Mister Donut is actually more of a snack on the go. Doughnuts aren’t commonly eaten as breakfast items in Taiwan, and as far as doughnuts go, the flavors are so-so though the texture is nice and chewy. Catering to an Asian clientele, the doughnuts tend to be less sickly sweet than those from America. However, stop by Mister Donut to see what the buzz is about, take some photos of its cute display windows and grab one of its more unusual flavors, including matcha, almond and peanut.

我知道，當您們看到Mister Donut出現在這篇文章，您們應該會覺得我很不要臉，覺得在占版面，的確，它並不是在地的店家而是源自於日本，但我必須要說的是，在台北，Mister Donut真的相當受到當地人的喜愛。除了櫥窗裡可以看到可愛的吉祥物讓自己療癒外，也能吃到各式各樣好吃的甜甜圈。雖然在台北，甜甜圈不常被人拿來當早餐享用，但是不得不提，Mister Donut的甜甜圈之所以值得一試，是因為它跟一般的有很大的不同，首先，它並不像美國傳統甜甜圈那樣那麼甜，再者，它的口感相當棒且帶有咬勁，這就是為何我想推薦給大家Mister Donut的主要原因。在那麼多的口味中，我會推薦大家嚐嚐一些少見的口味像是抹茶、杏仁和花生口味，另外別忘了，在點餐前，別忘了先用手機拍拍可愛的店面吧。

Day 2: Lunch at Tao Yuan Beef Noodle Soup

第二天午餐：桃源街牛肉麵

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Beef noodle soup is comfort food for Taiwanese. Whereas the Italians aim for al dente, in Taiwan, the sure sign of a good bowl of noodles is whether or not it’s QQ. Pronounced with a slight upward lilt, QQ describes the feel of the noodles, the perfect, just-right texture, not too soft and not too chewy. Accompanied by sides of pickled vegetables and pork ribs in glutinous rice, beef noodle soup is a must-eat on a trip to Taipei. Tao Yuan Beef Noodle Soup is a no-nonsense restaurant whose sole purpose for existing is to serve up the best beef noodle soup in Taipei. There’s no shop sign advertising its existence. In fact, the shop doesn’t even have a name. It’s just the ‘beef noodle soup place on Tao Yuan street’. Whilst most restaurants offer beef and tendon soups, Tao Yuan makes its soup with succulent chunks of beef, noodles that are, of course, very QQ. The tender meat and cooked-to-perfection noodles swim in a soup that’s beefy, greasy and spicy. Lighter soup broths are available, but the Taiwanese signature beef noodle soup is hong shao style, which comes from a combination of soya sauces and spices, infusing the beef and noodles with a dark, savory color and giving the soup a rich full-bodied flavor.

牛肉麵是台灣人的療癒食物之一。它跟外國觀光客可能習慣麵條偏硬的義大利麵很不一樣，台灣牛肉麵的麵條通常都是偏軟帶Q的，所謂Q是在台灣是指不會過軟也不會具有太有嚼勁的口感。除了牛肉麵外，您也可以加點粉蒸排骨和雪菜做搭配喔。

以台北眾多的牛肉麵店家裡，我最推薦的，是桃源街牛肉麵，因為它的牛肉跟一般牛肉麵店所提供偏乾柴的牛腱肉不同，店家挑選的牛肉軟嫩多汁，而且它的麵條帶Q喔。如果您有來到桃源街的話，您會發現桃源街牛肉麵其實並沒有招牌和店名，它就只是在桃源街上的一間牛肉麵店而得名。

一般來說在台北，大部分的店家都會提供清燉和紅燒牛肉麵，如果您想體驗傳統道地的牛肉麵，我會建議您吃紅燒牛肉麵，它的湯頭是由醬油及豆瓣醬所調製成的，有著比清燉還要更濃郁的醬香氣且更能搭配Q的麵條。

Day 2: Afternoon Tea at Chun Shui Tang | 春水堂

第二天下午茶：春水堂

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Bubble tea, also known as boba tea and pearl milk tea, is a uniquely Taiwanese cultural phenomenon that has spread to the rest of the world. Afternoon tea in Taiwan could mean English-style tea and cakes, or the Taiwanese variation of bubble tea and Chinese snacks. Chun Shui Tang is the original creator of the bubble tea craze, having come up with the idea of serving cold tea with milk and tapioca balls. Chun Shui Tang’s bubble tea with perfectly chewy tapioca balls can be accompanied by any number of tasty savory and sweet small dishes, including steamed shrimp balls, shao mai, sticky rice, Taiwanese sausages and red bean mochi.

珍珠奶茶，通常又稱為波霸奶茶和粉圓奶茶，是具有代表性的台灣美食，如果說在世界各地，如果您跟當地人問起台灣的話，大多數人的第一印象應該都不脫珍珠奶茶吧。

有趣的是，下午茶在台灣，可以代表英式茶品配蛋糕，也能代表台式的珍珠奶茶搭配中式點心。那麼講到珍珠奶茶，不得不提春水堂這間珍珠奶茶創始店，創始人最初是以冷飲搭配粉圓為靈感而發明出珍珠奶茶的。它的珍奶裡有著帶咬勁的粉圓，是很適合搭配任何美味的點心，包括蝦餃、燒賣、糯米丸、台式香腸和紅豆麻糬等都能讓您滿足喔。

Day 2: Taiwanese Dinner at Shin Yeh

第二天晚餐：欣葉台菜

此為示意圖，非店家產品

Shin Yeh is where the Taiwanese go for authentic Taiwanese food. Gua bao, Taiwanese pork sandwiches with pickled vegetables, coriander and peanut crumble, may also found at night markets, but Shin Yeh’s is wonderfully compact with flavors that complement each other in perfect proportion. Three cup chicken and three cup calamari are both distinct Taiwanese dishes. Cooked in an iron pot, Chinese sauces are combined with basil and ginger to give the chicken or calamari a mouth-watering burst of flavor. Oyster omelet is also a classic Taiwanese dish worth a try. To end the meal, Shin Yeh offers complimentary sticky peanut-covered mochi that are deliciously chewy and textured.

欣葉台菜是台北知名的台菜餐廳，它提供了各式各樣傳統的台式美食，像是卦包、地瓜粥等等。雖然卦包這種加花生粉和香菜的台版豬肉三明治，在夜市裡也能看得到，但是欣葉的卦包吃起來很不一樣，醬汁跟肉本身的肥瘦比例都拿捏得恰到好處。除了卦包，三杯雞和三杯魷魚這種傳統台菜也是在欣葉吃飯不能錯過的台菜。所謂〝三杯〞，指的是中式醬油搭配薑片和九層塔所烹調而成的，這種煮法給了料理一種誘人的香氣。除了經典的台菜外，欣葉的蚵仔煎也是不能錯過的台式美食。另外，如果您想在飯後吃點心，那麼欣葉也提供美味的花生麻糬，它有甜甜的花生味和彈牙的嚼勁，絕對會讓您滿意。

Day 2: Late-Night at Shilin Night Market

第二天宵夜：士林夜市

Shilin Night Market is Taiwan’s foremost night market, popular with locals and tourists alike. Come for the bargains and the souvenirs, but save some cash for the cheap eats that line the streets. Stinky tofu makes its home here, of course, but so too do deliciously crisp pan fried dumplings, steamed gua bao (pork bun with peanut crumble), heaping bowls of shaved ice, sausage-wrapped-sausage and more. The streets are notoriously packed so come prepared for the tight squeeze.

士林夜市當屬台北最有名的夜市了，這裡人山人海，匯集著在地遊客和外來的觀光客。在這裡，除了可以買到一些稍微高價的紀念品外，當您想省些荷包時，也可以嘗點銅板價的攤販小吃。除了臭豆腐這種常見的台灣小吃，這裡也能嘗到有油亮脆皮的煎餃、卦包、綿綿冰和大腸包小腸等等。反正呀，來士林夜市作為旅遊的終點站是絕對不會讓您失望的。

原文出處：48 Hours In Taipei: A Culinary Guide To The Taiwanese Capital

原文作者：Stephanie Chang Avila

原文撰文日期：2016/11/1